At a party, someone mentions Brussels. You nod. Inside, you have no idea what Brussels actually is. Is it a country? A city? The place that runs Europe? No, yes, and sort of. Here’s everything you need to know about Brussels but were too confused to ask.

What is Brussels?

Is Brussels a country?

Nope, but it’s easy to see why you’d think so! Brussels gets mentioned so often in international news that it sounds like it runs (part of) the world. It doesn’t. It just hosts the people who do.

Is Brussels a city?

Yes! Brussels is a quaint city in Door County (Wisconsin). Oh wait, you mean Brussels, Belgium? Yes, it is a city in the heart of Belgium.  A very lively, chaotic, charming one at that. And it is far more than a city!

How come?

Well, the city of Brussels is also the capital of Belgium. Not bad, right? But there is more. It is also a region. Yes, the Brussels-Capital Region is one of Belgium’s three official regions. It hosts 19 municipalities (among which the city of Brussels, capital of Belgium). 

So, what is Brussels, actually? (City, region, capital?)

Brussels is all three: a city, the capital of Belgium, and its own region (like a state). Oh, and it is also the de facto capital of the EU. If you’re suddenly thinking about nesting dolls, it’s normal.

How is Brussels different from Belgium?

Belgium is the country; Brussels is both its capital and one of its three regions (alongside Flanders and Wallonia).

What’s the difference between the Brussels Region and the City of Brussels?

The Brussels Region is the bigger area (19 municipalities), while the City of Brussels is just the central municipality—like Manhattan vs. New York City.

So… is Brussels a city inside a region that has the same name?

Correct. Don’t overthink it. The Belgians certainly didn’t. And remember, it is not weirder than New York City in the state of New York. 

But if Brussels isn’t a country, why does it have its own government?

Because Brussels is one of three regions in the country, each with its own government and parliament. Think of Belgium’s regions as states in the US.

Is Brussels French or Dutch? (Or both? Or neither?) 

Both, officially. Brussels is bilingual, with French and Dutch as its two official languages. Historically, Brussels was mostly Dutch-speaking. Nowadays, it’s mostly French-speaking. With all the international institutions in the city, English is very common too. Most of the time, people adopt a mix of French and Dutch sprinkled with a bit of English.

Does it have its own President?

Yes. While Belgium has a prime minister, the Brussels-Capital Region has its own minister-president. (Because why make things simple?)

I thought Belgium had a King?

You are correct. Which means that Brussels has both a minister-president and a king! And since Brussels is the capital, the royal palace is right there in the city center. King Philippe has been on the throne since 2013. 

Brussels on the international scene

Is Brussels the capital of Europe?

Unofficially, yes. Brussels hosts the European Commission, the European Council, the European Parliament, and the Council of the European Union. It didn’t campaign for the role—it just ended up with it because Belgium was seen as neutral (compared to powerful countries like France or Germany). And probably because diplomats love waffles and chocolate. 

So when the news says “Brussels decided…”

It means the EU institutions based in Brussels reached a decision. The locals were not consulted. They never are. They do, however, get to enjoy the traffic jams when half of Europe descends on their city to demonstrate against it.

Is this why Brussels is so important in Europe and the world?

It is partially because Brussels is the de facto HQ of the EU, but also because it hosts the headquarters of NATO and a zillion other international orgs. If there’s a big decision in Europe, chances are it’s being made (or debated endlessly) in Brussels.

If I move to Brussels, do I become a diplomat by default?

Only if you can navigate EU jargon and survive a meeting without dozing off. Otherwise, you’re just a happy expat with great beer and chocolate.

Brussels on the food scene

Did Brussels invent the waffle?

Brussels claims the Brussels waffle — light, rectangular, crispy. Liège claims the Liège waffle — dense, chewy, caramelized. Both are extraordinary. Both cities are very serious about this. Just don’t walk into a Belgian café and order a “Belgian waffle” — that doesn’t exist in Belgium. It’s an American invention, born in the sixties when the Brussels waffle crossed the Atlantic and got renamed because, well, nobody knew where Brussels was.

Is Brussels the French fries capital of the world?

Close, but no. The fry obsession covers the entire country, so Belgium as a whole deserves that title. There are more than 4,600 fries stands (called fritkot) in Belgium, so Brussels shouldn’t take credit.

Do people in Brussels actually eat Brussels sprouts?

Brussels sprouts do historically come from the Brussels region. That’s about as far as the local pride goes. Most Belgians can’t stand them—they’re firmly in the category of vegetables guilty parents deploy against unsuspecting children, alongside broccoli. The real twist? Brussels sprouts are far easier to find on a restaurant menu in the US than in Belgium itself.

Visit Brussels 

What are some uniquely Brussels things (besides waffles)?

Where to start? Food, obviously.

Hit a friterie for proper Belgian fries—Maison Antoine (Place Jourdan) and Frit’Flagey are institutions, but they are not in the city center. Worry not! You can also find great Belgian fries around the stock exchange building. Try as many sauces as you can; you won’t find as much choice anywhere else.

Then go buy chocolate: Neuhaus and Corné for the classics or any artisanal shop for something more local (Passion Chocolat is a personal favorite). On the way, stop at Maison Dandoy for real speculoos cookies.

For a drink, duck into the Delirium Café, holder of the Guinness World Record for the number of beers available for tasting, or into À l’Imaige Nostre-Dame, Brussels’ oldest estaminet, for a Belgian beer.

For dinner, find a local brasserie and order one of the traditional Belgian dishes, like Flemish carbonade, waterzooi, vol-au-vent, or boulets à la liégeoise. Finish with a Biscoff tiramisu or a chocolate mousse. You’re in Belgium. This is not the time for diets.

Once you’ve eaten enough, it’s time to walk. Three must-sees in the city center:

• The Grand Place, one of the most beautiful squares in the world
• The Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert, a breathtaking 19th century shopping arcade
• The Musical Instruments Museum—less for the instruments, more for its stunning Art Nouveau facade.

While you’re there, wander through Place Royale and past the Royal Palace (the King actually lives there, so visits are limited to a few weeks in summer).

Then leave the tourist trail and hunt down the comic book murals scattered across the city—Belgium is the birthplace of Tintin and the Smurfs, and the walls know it. While you’re at it, find the Manneken Pis, a small bronze statue of a little boy urinating into a fountain and one of Brussels’s most well-known symbols, but also seek out his two lesser-known companions: Jeanneke Pis (the sister) and Zinneke Pis (the dog). Yes, Brussels built a whole urinating family.

If you still have energy, take the metro to the Atomium—a giant atom-shaped structure built for the 1958 World Fair that somehow became an icon. 

There’s plenty more to discover, but if time is short, this is the Brussels I’d show you.

• Maison Antoine, Jourdanplein 1, 1040 Etterbeek
• Frit’Flagey, Pl. Eugène Flagey, 1050 Ixelles
• Brussels Stock Exchange, Bd Anspach 80, 1000 Bruxelles
• Neuhaus, Grand Place 27, 1000 Bruxelles
• Corné Port Royal, Rue au Beurre 46, 1000 Bruxelles
• Passion Chocolat, Rue du Marché aux Herbes 81, 1000 Bruxelles
• Maison Dandoy, Rue au Beurre 31, 1000 Bruxelles
• Delirium Café, Imp. de la Fidélité 4, 1000 Bruxelles
• À l’Imaige Nostre-Dame, Imp. des Cadeaux 3, 1000 Bruxelles
• Grand Place, Grand-Place de Bruxelles, 1000 Bruxelles
• Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert, Galerie du Roi 5, 1000 Bruxelles
• Musical Instruments Museum, Rue Montagne de la Cour 2, 1000 Bruxelles
• Royal palace, Rue Brederode 16, 1000 Bruxelles
• Manneken Pis, Rue de l’Étuve, 1000 Brussel
• Jeanneke Pis, Imp. de la Fidélité 10-12, 1000 Bruxelles
• Zinneke Pis, Rue des Chartreux 35, 1000 Bruxelles
• Atomium, Pl. de l’Atomium 1, 1020 Bruxelles

Should I visit Brussels?

Absolutely! Brussels is the most powerful city you could visit. Decisions made in Brussels affect over 400 million people across Europe. And yet most tourists fly straight to Paris. Their loss. Also, Brussels has world-class museums, a jaw-dropping Art Nouveau architecture scene, legendary nightlife, and some of the best food in Europe. It just doesn’t brag about it.